Paddles
Moderator: Moderators
I've never been able to make a game using the paddles. They are just too "jittery". The slightest touch gets an over-reaction.
I know this can be overcome by programming. Compare the C64 version of Pinball and Super Smash to the VIC versions. The response is very different. I just haven't been motivated enough to explore programming solutions because no enough VIC owners use paddles.
I also find the game possibilities very limited; however, I own several variations on VIC paddles. The white/black equivelants to the Atari 2600 paddles and the grey flat paddles with a centered button.
I know this can be overcome by programming. Compare the C64 version of Pinball and Super Smash to the VIC versions. The response is very different. I just haven't been motivated enough to explore programming solutions because no enough VIC owners use paddles.
I also find the game possibilities very limited; however, I own several variations on VIC paddles. The white/black equivelants to the Atari 2600 paddles and the grey flat paddles with a centered button.
-
- Vic 20 Newbie
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Sat Jan 22, 2005 5:49 am
I have one home made set that my brother made for me in 1987.
/Anders
/Anders
PRG Starter - a VICE helper / Vic Software (Boray Gammon, SD2IEC music player, Vic Disk Menu, Tribbles, Mega Omega, How Many 8K etc.)
- Schema
- factor
- Posts: 1430
- Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2004 7:07 am
- Website: http://www.jammingsignal.com
- Location: Toronto, Ontario
We discussed this a while back in another thread. I really want to get paddles working on my VIC again, because the good two-player games need paddles (Skibbereen, Clowns, etc)
I have a set of Atari paddles that work perfectly on my C64, but jitter on my VIC20. However, years and years ago, my VIC worked perfectly with paddles. Still not sure what the problem is. Now that I have a second VIC, I should try it too.
By the way, Jim Brain's PSXJoy (Playstation adaptor for the C64 or VIC) also emulates paddles:
http://www.jbrain.com/vicug/gallery/psxjoy
And because the output is created digitally and not with potentiometers, it would hopefully never jitter.
I have a set of Atari paddles that work perfectly on my C64, but jitter on my VIC20. However, years and years ago, my VIC worked perfectly with paddles. Still not sure what the problem is. Now that I have a second VIC, I should try it too.
By the way, Jim Brain's PSXJoy (Playstation adaptor for the C64 or VIC) also emulates paddles:
http://www.jbrain.com/vicug/gallery/psxjoy
And because the output is created digitally and not with potentiometers, it would hopefully never jitter.
- Mayhem
- High Bidder
- Posts: 3027
- Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 7:03 am
- Website: http://www.mayhem64.co.uk
- Location: London
- Schema
- factor
- Posts: 1430
- Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2004 7:07 am
- Website: http://www.jammingsignal.com
- Location: Toronto, Ontario
I got two sets of paddles (Commodore and Atari) as well as a combo-joystick/paddle.
They all jitter... was there ever any jitterfree paddles?
// Zeela
They all jitter... was there ever any jitterfree paddles?
// Zeela
Check out my humble collection of old 'puters an such
http://www.zeela.se
http://www.zeela.se
I think the paddles are jittery because of age, I don't remember them being jittery when they were new. It may be like the analog volume controls on old TV's and radios - they gets scratchy/crackly when you turn the volume up and down. This is probably what causes the jitter.
I seem to remember _temporarily_ fixing analog radio volumes by putting WD-40 lubricant on it, however there may be a proper way to do this (it doesn't seem to last too long).
I did find this at http://www.guitarsite.com/newsletters/9.htm
---------------
2 - Fixing Scratchy Volume & Tone Controls, by Peter Schmidt
Do you have noisy volume/tone controls?? Is it really annoying every time you turn the volume up or down, and a scratch comes through your amp? Are you afraid to even turn the control now? Or maybe a foot pedal that has a scratchy control (wah pedal for example)? Here's a simple solution to your woes.
Go to your local electronics (Dick Smith / Tandy) store or hi-fi store and ask for an electrical contact cleaner (they should know what you want if you say you're cleaning noisy variable resistors (or potentiometers)). It comes in a tin at around $7 (AUST), and you'll never need to buy another can in your lifetime (it lasts for ages). The cleaner doesn't conduct electricity, and will get rid of dust and dirt etc. It will leave you're pots without that cracking sound when you turn them, and even works with your switches.
Electrical contact cleaner is known as an electric contact lubricant. That is, it cleans and also lubricates to help stop wear of the control. Because dirt and dust (and corrosion build up) get into the control, the wiper doesn't contact the resistive material all that well. By cleaning it with contact cleaner, it helps the wiper to make better contact. Just spray some cleaner into the pot cavity (where the wiper is), and move the control back and forth, and then clean again to remove any residue. It may not eliminate the scratchy sound entirely, but there will be a vast improvement.
------------
Anyone have a set of paddles to experiment on? Sounds like it may be corrosion on the metal contacts, or the variable resistance pad opposite.
I seem to remember _temporarily_ fixing analog radio volumes by putting WD-40 lubricant on it, however there may be a proper way to do this (it doesn't seem to last too long).
I did find this at http://www.guitarsite.com/newsletters/9.htm
---------------
2 - Fixing Scratchy Volume & Tone Controls, by Peter Schmidt
Do you have noisy volume/tone controls?? Is it really annoying every time you turn the volume up or down, and a scratch comes through your amp? Are you afraid to even turn the control now? Or maybe a foot pedal that has a scratchy control (wah pedal for example)? Here's a simple solution to your woes.
Go to your local electronics (Dick Smith / Tandy) store or hi-fi store and ask for an electrical contact cleaner (they should know what you want if you say you're cleaning noisy variable resistors (or potentiometers)). It comes in a tin at around $7 (AUST), and you'll never need to buy another can in your lifetime (it lasts for ages). The cleaner doesn't conduct electricity, and will get rid of dust and dirt etc. It will leave you're pots without that cracking sound when you turn them, and even works with your switches.
Electrical contact cleaner is known as an electric contact lubricant. That is, it cleans and also lubricates to help stop wear of the control. Because dirt and dust (and corrosion build up) get into the control, the wiper doesn't contact the resistive material all that well. By cleaning it with contact cleaner, it helps the wiper to make better contact. Just spray some cleaner into the pot cavity (where the wiper is), and move the control back and forth, and then clean again to remove any residue. It may not eliminate the scratchy sound entirely, but there will be a vast improvement.
------------
Anyone have a set of paddles to experiment on? Sounds like it may be corrosion on the metal contacts, or the variable resistance pad opposite.
I have used CRC 5-56 to do that on many pots with good results. (5-56 is probably the same thing as WD-40, but more common in Sweden). I use 5-56 quite alot. I have for example oiled my 1541's motor with it... You should probably have some special oil for that, but ... then you would need a special oil for everything... (There was a strange noise and I got read errors on my 1541 when I got it, but after a drop of 5-56 it has worked perfectly for a year at least...)
/Anders
/Anders
PRG Starter - a VICE helper / Vic Software (Boray Gammon, SD2IEC music player, Vic Disk Menu, Tribbles, Mega Omega, How Many 8K etc.)
- Schema
- factor
- Posts: 1430
- Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2004 7:07 am
- Website: http://www.jammingsignal.com
- Location: Toronto, Ontario
Ouch! 5-56 is good for lubricating and removing rust, but it is terrible on electronics! It contains lots of oil which will stick to everything you spray it on. I used to spend days cleaning that stuff out when I worked as a service engineer at a local music shop. Imagine a tape deck covered in oil. Pots need some lubrication though, so you should use something with a _little_ oil in it. I recommend "Electrolube" which seems to do the trick. Use it sparesly, and make sure it only goes into the pot!Boray wrote:I have used CRC 5-56 to do that on many pots with good results. (5-56 is probably the same thing as WD-40, but more common in Sweden). I use 5-56 quite alot. I have for example oiled my 1541's motor with it... You should probably have some special oil for that, but ... then you would need a special oil for everything... (There was a strange noise and I got read errors on my 1541 when I got it, but after a drop of 5-56 it has worked perfectly for a year at least...)
I don't know value, but you should be able to measure it between outer terminals of pot with multimeter. Your bigger challenge likely will be to find pots with same physical demensions.Schema wrote:It shouldn't be too hard to change the potentiometers in the paddles for brand new ones. Does anyone know the resistance range that the paddles should use?
Best bet is to pull one of the pots out and take it with you to Sayal. They have contact cleaner as well for about $8 per can. You may wish to check contact cleaner before purchase as some vendors are now labelling petroleum solvent based products as "contact cleaner".