WTB: Vic 20 Joysticks
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WTB: Vic 20 Joysticks
I want to buy the Atari-style joysticks (not the triangle kind), shipped to 60610.
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- Vic 20 Dabbler
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- Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 4:21 pm
- Pedro Lambrini
- Vic 20 Scientist
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- Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2008 11:36 am
I have been on the watch for those also. I do have one, boxed
even. I noticed on Zimmers that he lists this model as 'unknown'
but mine has a label on the box listing it as Vic-1311, same as the triangle
shaped joystick. I also have a boxed triangle joystick.
I would love to have a boxed set of the Atari-style Commodore
brand paddles (Vic-1312 according to Zimmers). I have a
loose set, and a loose set of the gray version.
even. I noticed on Zimmers that he lists this model as 'unknown'
but mine has a label on the box listing it as Vic-1311, same as the triangle
shaped joystick. I also have a boxed triangle joystick.
I would love to have a boxed set of the Atari-style Commodore
brand paddles (Vic-1312 according to Zimmers). I have a
loose set, and a loose set of the gray version.
If you document it, its not a bug, its a feature.
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You can have peace, or you can have freedom. Just don't count on having them both at once.
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There was a time, before we were born. If someone asks, this is where I'll be.
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You can have peace, or you can have freedom. Just don't count on having them both at once.
~
There was a time, before we were born. If someone asks, this is where I'll be.
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- Omega Star Commander
- Posts: 1371
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- Website: https://robert.hurst-ri.us
- Location: Providence, RI
- Occupation: Tech & Innovation
That was my first C= joystick back in 1982. Funny, we had an Atari VCS I bought as a family Christmas gift a few months earlier, and my brothers would grab my C= joystick to play their Atari games -- because of its distinctive color and it just felt like it worked better.
I have an unboxed one (as pictured) and a pair of the triangle stick ones from an ebay lot of joysticks and paddles (I just wanted the paddles). I'll probably end up bundling those when I part with some C= systems.
When they first came out, I preferred to use the WICO bat handled joysticks -- they are indestructible, but if necessary, serviceable. Today, I have four of those and they are still the best to have. Jeff, I would recommend that quality joystick over those original Atari-style joysticks.
That said, I understand the "need" for old-school controllers. I ordered two pair of Atari-style replica joysticks from Legacy Engineering, and got confirmation that they are shipping this weekend (finally)! It is USB based, comes with the cable, and the controller inside can accommodate extra buttons if a mod is required. I believe he produced a winner -- he cannot ship them fast enough and is now looking for wholesale / retail outlets. He also increased the price from $14.99 each to $16.99 -- whereas pre-ordering 4 got me the discounted price of only $12.99 -- woot!
I have an unboxed one (as pictured) and a pair of the triangle stick ones from an ebay lot of joysticks and paddles (I just wanted the paddles). I'll probably end up bundling those when I part with some C= systems.
When they first came out, I preferred to use the WICO bat handled joysticks -- they are indestructible, but if necessary, serviceable. Today, I have four of those and they are still the best to have. Jeff, I would recommend that quality joystick over those original Atari-style joysticks.
That said, I understand the "need" for old-school controllers. I ordered two pair of Atari-style replica joysticks from Legacy Engineering, and got confirmation that they are shipping this weekend (finally)! It is USB based, comes with the cable, and the controller inside can accommodate extra buttons if a mod is required. I believe he produced a winner -- he cannot ship them fast enough and is now looking for wholesale / retail outlets. He also increased the price from $14.99 each to $16.99 -- whereas pre-ordering 4 got me the discounted price of only $12.99 -- woot!
Any technology distinguishable from magic is insufficiently advanced.
https://robert.hurst-ri.us/rob/retrocomputing
https://robert.hurst-ri.us/rob/retrocomputing
I got the same confirmation and I'll believe it when I see them. Read this thread and you'll see why I'm cynical. Were you told that your order was mysteriously lost?rhurst wrote:I ordered two pair of Atari-style replica joysticks from Legacy Engineering, and got confirmation that they are shipping this weekend (finally)!
In the end it will be as if nothing ever happened.
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- Omega Star Commander
- Posts: 1371
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- Website: https://robert.hurst-ri.us
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- Occupation: Tech & Innovation
Yes, the wait has been discouraging -- no communication, lack of web site update, no return e-mails (until this past week). I am not holding my breath, either, but I think it's only a novelty item for which it shouldn't be holding anyone up too much -- so perhaps to some it is still worth waiting for.I got the same confirmation and I'll believe it when I see them.
Yeah, that thread rings true for me, too... I'm probably not just as alarmed about it just yet. Of course, if this were July ...
Any technology distinguishable from magic is insufficiently advanced.
https://robert.hurst-ri.us/rob/retrocomputing
https://robert.hurst-ri.us/rob/retrocomputing
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- Vic 20 Dabbler
- Posts: 95
- Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 4:21 pm
I was out touring around with my son Isaac, and we wound up in a Value Village (like a Goodwill or Salvation Army store) and found a Sega Genesis controller for $3. I brought it home and it KINDA worked - if I really razzed the gamepad I could randomly get a fire or thrust in Omega Race. But I found an excellent tutorial that showed me how to convert the Sega controller to work like an Atari controller. I did that (a bit of soldering) and PRESTO! I can play Omega Race once again! It's not an actual Atari or CBM stick, but it'll do the job until I get one. $3! NICE!
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- Vic 20 Dabbler
- Posts: 95
- Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 4:21 pm
Opps! Forgot to post the link where I found the info....
http://www.atarimax.com/freenet/freenet ... cle.php?63
Here's the important text:
How To Convert a Sega Genesis Controller to Atari Standard Pinout
The Sega controller almost has the same pinout as an Atari Standard
joystick (wonder why!). The lowest-cost model (no-frills, three
fire buttons, ~ $10 at Toys R Us) can easily be modified for use with
Atari STs, Atari 8-bitters, TI-99/4As (mod tested on these) and probably
all other home computers from the 70's and 80's. With this mod, the
movement pad will work like a regular joystick, and the middle fire
button ("B") will work as a joystick fire button.
1. Unscrew the 6 screws and lift off the back. Remove the cable/board
assembly.
2. Disable the single logic device (74HC157) by:
a. Cutting pins 4, 7, and 9, or
b. Cutting the entire chip clean off!
Note that, holding the board so the "notch" at the end of the
chip is "up", pin 1 is at the upper left corner. Pins number down the
side and up on the other side, with pin 16 opposite pin 1. Remember
that when looking at the reverse (circuit) side, the image is flipped!
3. Make a solder bridge between pins 3 and 4, 6 and 7, and 9 and 10. If
globbing on enough solder to make the bridge doesn't appeal to you, use
a bit of wire, like a bit of resistor lead from your junkbox.
http://www.atarimax.com/freenet/freenet ... cle.php?63
Here's the important text:
How To Convert a Sega Genesis Controller to Atari Standard Pinout
The Sega controller almost has the same pinout as an Atari Standard
joystick (wonder why!). The lowest-cost model (no-frills, three
fire buttons, ~ $10 at Toys R Us) can easily be modified for use with
Atari STs, Atari 8-bitters, TI-99/4As (mod tested on these) and probably
all other home computers from the 70's and 80's. With this mod, the
movement pad will work like a regular joystick, and the middle fire
button ("B") will work as a joystick fire button.
1. Unscrew the 6 screws and lift off the back. Remove the cable/board
assembly.
2. Disable the single logic device (74HC157) by:
a. Cutting pins 4, 7, and 9, or
b. Cutting the entire chip clean off!
Note that, holding the board so the "notch" at the end of the
chip is "up", pin 1 is at the upper left corner. Pins number down the
side and up on the other side, with pin 16 opposite pin 1. Remember
that when looking at the reverse (circuit) side, the image is flipped!
3. Make a solder bridge between pins 3 and 4, 6 and 7, and 9 and 10. If
globbing on enough solder to make the bridge doesn't appeal to you, use
a bit of wire, like a bit of resistor lead from your junkbox.
1. Doesn't a Sega controller work on Atari and Commodore systems with no mod at all? I use them all the time.
2. USB Joystick! Why don't people tell me these things?!
3. Why won't someone make an all purpose USB hub for NES and 9 pin controllers like Atari and Genesis? I have such a USB box for PS2, Dreamcast or Saturn. I have another Dreamcast box to allow Playstation, Saturn and PC ps2 (keyboard) input. If the claim of 10 thousand sales is true. There should be a market for a classic controller box. It would probably be easier to make too!
2. USB Joystick! Why don't people tell me these things?!
3. Why won't someone make an all purpose USB hub for NES and 9 pin controllers like Atari and Genesis? I have such a USB box for PS2, Dreamcast or Saturn. I have another Dreamcast box to allow Playstation, Saturn and PC ps2 (keyboard) input. If the claim of 10 thousand sales is true. There should be a market for a classic controller box. It would probably be easier to make too!
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- Vic 20 Dabbler
- Posts: 95
- Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 4:21 pm
I believe both Master System and Genesis joypads work as they are, but there is a theoretical risk you'll accidentally short circuit something inside the VIC when you press either of the other buttons. That is why people would make alterations to the pads, to ensure they're fail-safe. Perhaps the VIC-20 is more sturdy than its younger, brown brother so any damage would only show up when you plug it into a C64.
Anders Carlsson